Summer 2014 SPFs Round-Up

Summer may be over, but wearing SPF should be year round. UVA rays are one of the primary causes of signs of aging in the skin, and I personally think that it's always easier to prevent these signs before they appear rather than try to fix them afterwards. I featured quite a few SPF numbers on the blog over the summer, so here I compare them against each other and give you guys all the deets on the pros and cons. Get ready for a very lengthy post! Or just read the pros and cons if you hate quality writing (I jest).

(image from usa.loccitane.com)

L'Occitane Immortelle Brightening UV Shield SPF 40 ($70 for 30mL)

Featured in my post "Trialling SPF's". This was the first SPF I used this summer, so unfortunately I've used it all up and threw out the bottle. It has a very liquid texture and is a physical sunscreen, which are both properties I prefer for my daily SPF. It also happens to be the only SPF I'ved owned that comes in convenient pump packaging (!!!), so you can control how much you want to use, which is going to be important since this sunscreen is very, very pricey. That being said, sunscreen is not one of those things where "less is better". If you do not use a sufficient amount, you will not get the proper protection, and that would just be a waste of time and money.

I don't think it's possible for a physical sunscreen to leave no white cast at all, but this one is very,very subtle. The texture of the product is very easy to rub in and it absorbs easily. It has a slight floral scent that's quite pleasant and isn't too overpowering. It contains a myriad of plant extracts aimed at brightening the skin, but I personally don't think these ingredients are going to be able to absorb into the skin efficiently, especially since they're probably only present in very small quantities. Water, silicone, and the mineral SPF ingredients make up the majority of the product. And since you apply SPF as the last step of your skincare routine, those plant extracts are going to have to penetrate moisturizer and whatever other products are underneath, which I think is highly unlikely. So if those plant extracts are what make the price so high, I don't think it's worth your time. Plant ingredients can also cause irritation to the skin. I personally had no problem with this product, but those with sensitive skin should ask for some samples at a L'Occitane store before committing to the full sized product.

Another thing I'm somewhat concerned with is that the only SPF ingredient contained in this product is titanium dioxide, which is great for protection against UVB rays, but cannot provide sufficient protection against UVA rays unless the concentration is high. In this case, the product has 11.52% titanium dioxide, which might be enough to provide UVA protection since the product does make the claim of being broad spectrum (ie. protects against both UVA and UVB rays). However, for us regular consumers, it's hard to be really sure about these things, so I'd rather err on the side of caution and opt for something that also has UVA-protection ingredients.

Pros:
 - lightweight texture
 - not a very noticeable white cast
 - sinks in quickly (not sticky at all)
 - has plant extracts that may or may not help with hyperpigmentation

Cons:
 - expensive
 - titanium dioxide may not provide sufficient UVA protection
  - plant extracts may irritate sensitive skin

Shiseido Gentle Sun Protection Lotion SPF 33 ($41 for 100mL)

Featured in my post "July Favourites". This one is a physical sunscreen that has a whooping 13.9% zinc oxide and 3.3% titanium dioxide so it has got both the UVA and UVB protection down. Again, a very liquid texture that is easy to spread. The white cast is also hardly noticeable. I first started using this while I was in China and didn't enjoy it as much, because the product does feel a bit oily. This isn't necessarily a bad thing, because physical sunscreens require oil to make sure that the mineral sunscreen ingredients (ie. zinc oxide and titanium dioxide) can be blended evenly over the skin. However, in very humid weather, the oil just felt a bit heavy on the skin and wasn't the most comfortable thing to put on. 

Since coming back to Vancouver, I've been enjoying this product a lot, probably because my skin is a bit drier and I'm not sweating buckets all the time. When I say oily, I don't mean super heavy and sticky. This product leaves more of a satin-y, soft finish on the skin. I like to apply in 2-3 thin layers rather than in 1 thick layer because I find that feels more lightweight, and it can help to evenly distribute the sunscreen and make sure you cover every bit of skin. 

Because this product is free of fragrance and alcohol and is a physical sunscreen (rather than a chemical sunscreen), it's a great option for those with sensitive skin, and I always gravitate towards it when my skin is acting up. It's also pretty reasonably priced because you get a whooping 100mL, which is more than 3 times as much as the standard 30mL you get with other products. The one real downside to this product for me is that it doesn't always sit the best under makeup. It can kind of slip and slide a little bit depending on the base makeup I'm using, but using makeup primer helps fix this problem.

Pros:
 - lightweight liquid texture
 - not a very noticeable white cast
 - high concentration of zinc oxide and titanium dioxide to provide full UVA/UVB protection
 - great for sensitive skin
 - good price for the amount you're getting

Con:
 - slightly oily texture not good for humid weather
 - can slip and slide under makeup if you don't use a primer

Shiseido Urban Environment Oil-Free UV Protector Broad Spectrum SPF 42 For Face ($30 for 30mL)

Probably the longest name for an SPF anyone has ever seen. This is a relatively new one for me. I picked it up from Sephora Times Square on a recent trip over to the states. Again, lightweight liquid texture, you know the drill. This is actually a physical-chemical sunscreen hybrid, which means it contains both physical and chemical sunscreen products. In this case, 4.9% octinoxate (UVB protection), 3.0% octocrylene (UVB protection), 12.5% zinc oxide (UVA/UVB protection). Strangely enough, this leaves the most obvious white cast out of all of these options. It's actually quite noticeable and doesn't really go away even if you leave it for a few minutes. I don't mind the white cast if I'm going to be wearing makeup because it'll be covered anyway. Strangely enough, this sunscreen actually has a bit of a perfecting quality in that it blurs out my acne scars and covers up some of the redness in my skin. It doesn't really provide coverage, but just makes things a little less noticeable, which means I can use less of my base makeup. 

This product is oil-free, which seems to make the texture quite dry. That seems strange since it is a liquid, but once you start spreading it over the face, you'll start to notice that it doesn't glide over as smoothly as something like the Shiseido Gentle Sun Protection Lotion. It really can dry quite matte, which may not be suitable for dry skin. I have combination skin but I don't really suffer from dry patches, so I can get away with using it. Because it does dry down very matte, it doesn't slip and slide at all under makeup, which I really like. 

Pros:

 - liquid, lightweight texture

 - dries matte = good for under makeup

 - does not irritate sensitive skin
 - blurs imperfections on the skin

Cons: 

 - leaves a noticeable white cast

 - dry texture not suitable for dry or combination-dry skin

Biore UV Aqua Rich Watery Essence Water Base SPF 50 PA+++ ($13.99 for 50g)

Featured in my post "A Love and a Shrug #3: SPF Edition". (Let's not even talk about the Dr. Sebagh SPF also mentioned in that post. That was just a disaster to apply and such a waste of money.) This is the only chemical sunscreen I'm talking about today. As a result, it does not leave a white cast at all and has an oil-free formula. It has a very interesting watery-gel texture that feels like a lightweight moisturizer and sinks in almost instantly, so this is the most comfortable to wear out of the four options. It has kind of a strong fragrance and contains alcohol as the second ingredient listed, which is typical of Japanese drugstore skincare, but makes it unsuitable for sensitive skin types. This product doesn't break me out, but kind of gives me that uncomfortable feeling like it's irritating my skin, so I don't use it as much, but it is fantastic for hot, humid climates. I also think it would make for a good body SPF at the beach as it sinks in super quick and is pretty affordable, being a drugstore product.

I've seen a lot of bloggers recommend this product, so I think it really is a matter of personal preference for me. I prefer physical sunscreen to chemical sunscreen, because physical sunscreen is less irritating for sensitive skin, and I don't like the idea of chemical sunscreen ingredients absorbing into the skin. Physical sunscreen (titanium dioxide and zinc oxide) works by forming a shield over the skin and reflecting UV rays, while chemical sunscreens absorb UV rays before they get to the skin. Chemical sunscreens degrade over time or become inactivated by the sun, so you have to reapply often, which really is just unrealistic for those of us who wear makeup. I suppose I also just think that the image of UV rays bouncing off of a shield looks way cooler, but that's not important, shhhhh...

Pros:
 - lightweight watery-gel texture makes it the most comfortable to wear 
 - oil free
 - no white cast
 - most affordable option 

Cons:
 - contains fragrance and alcohol (not good for sensitive skin types) 
 - have to reapply often (not possible over makeup) 


Innisfree Eco Natural Suncare BB Powder ($20 for 150g)

Featured in my post "Innisfree Haul + First Impressions". This is an SPF pressed powder that is slightly tinted. Let me just start out by saying that powder sunscreen can not replace liquid sunscreen. You would have to apply an absolutely ridiculous amount of powder sunscreen to get the sufficient SPF protection. However, for those of us who wear makeup on a daily basis, it's unrealistic to take all the makeup off, reapply liquid sunscreen during the middle of the day, and put all the makeup back on. This is where powder sunscreen comes in! This Innisfree one is great because it comes with a puff attached to the lid which makes for easy application on-the-go. It doesn't make my makeup go cakey either. Obviously you're not going to get the same amount of SPF protection as you would by reapplying a liquid sunscreen, but it's better than nothing.

Sometimes when I'm having a no-makeup day, I also apply this powder over top of my liquid sunscreen. It gives a very slight tint that helps to even out the skin tone, and it mattifies the skin so dust particles won't stick to the liquid sunscreen.

The Verdict

Overall, I think the Shiseido Gentle Sun Protection Lotion comes out on top for my daily SPF. The high concentration of zinc oxide ensures sufficient protection against both UVA and UVB. It's a great fail-safe option for sensitive skin or skin that's breaking out, and doesn't leave a noticeable white cast.

My second pick would be the Shiseido Urban Environment Oil-Free UV Protector Broad Spectrum SPF 42 For Face. Although it leaves a white cast, I'm very fond of its perfecting qualities, and it makes a great base for makeup.

I don't really have any special feelings towards the Biore UV Aqua Rich Watery Essence Water Base SPF 50 PA+++ and L'Occitane Immortelle Brightening UV Shield SPF 40. They're both great products and could be suitable for those with skin types different than my own, but I likely will not repurchase them again.

The Innisfree Eco Natural Suncare BB Powder is a great item to keep in your handbag for mid-day touch-ups, but cannot replace a daily liquid SPF application. 

What was your favourite SPF this summer?

July Favourites

This is actually the first monthly favourites post on the blog. I usually don't find the need to write a favourites post as I mention my favourites in various posts throughout the month, but this month I haven't been able to blog as much, so I decided to round up the best of beauty here. 

First up is yet another SPF favourite. I know I've already mentioned a few SPF loves recently, but as it is still summer, wearing SPF is extremely important so it can't hurt to mention another one. The Shiseido Gentle Sun Protection Lotion for Sensitive Skin and Babies is a completely physical sunscreen with a whooping 13.9% zinc oxide and 3.3% titanium dioxide to ensure protection against both UVB and UVA rays. I'm pretty picky with SPFs - or rather, my very sensitive skin is pretty picky with SPFs - but if this suncreen is gentle enough for babies 6 months and over, it's good enough for me. It's SPF 33, which is completely fine for city activities, but there is also a SPF 50 counterpart for those going on vacation. The product comes in an extremely liquid texture. Physical sunscreens can feel heavy and greasy on the skin due to the oil content needed to spread the mineral SPF actives evenly. I find that applying in 2-3 thin layers rather than one thick layer can help to spread the sufficient amount of sunscreen needed to provide the full SPF protection while minimizing greasiness and difficulties with blending. I find that applying this way, this product leaves a very smooth finish on the skin that isn't heavy at all. 

Another skincare favourite this month is the Biotherm Life Plankton Essence. I picked this up at a Biotherm counter in Shanghai, but I was told that it will be released worldwide soon. Apparently, "Life Plankton" is a micro-organism that live in the French Pyrenees hot springs, known as the "fountain of youth" due to its ability to sooth the wounds of Roman soldiers and preserve the youthfulness in women's skin. The product has a very watery consistency and I like to use it as a hydrating toner, but I think of it as kind of a toner-serum hybrid. It helps to hydrate the skin, increase cellular turnover in the skin to reveal brighter skin, and aid in the absorption of subsequent products. During the first week that I used this product, I didn't really see any effects. It felt comfortable on the skin, absorbed nicely, and had no obtrusive scent, but that was about it. After the first week though, I noticed that my skin started to feel incredibly smooth and had this healthy glow to it. As I've been staying in air conditioning pretty much 24/7, my skin has been dangerously on the verge of being dehydrated, but this product has been keeping my skin nicely plump and hydrated. The sales assistant at the Biotherm counter told me that after 28 days (the skin renews itself every 28 days), I would see significant improvement in acne scars and fine lines. Now I don't struggle with fine lines and other signs of aging, but I will keep you all updated on the acne scars front.

I got a Japanese perm (permanent waves) in June and it has seriously saved me so much time getting ready in the morning. I roll out of bed with hair that actually looks very nice, and my hair doesn't require any extra maintenance compared to its natural state. The one step that I have added to my hair care routine is a salt spray, and I went with the Bumble and Bumble Surf Spray. I went with the smaller 1.7oz size as it's super easy to carry around. I find that a surf spray really helps to enhance the curls in my hair. When I feel that my hair is getting a bit flat after a few days of unwash, I spray a bit of this through the ends of my hair, scrunch it up a few times, and I'm left with more texturized, defined curls. I've also tried spraying this on damp hair and scrunching my hair while it's drying, but I actually ended up with hair that was a bit too curly for my liking. I think those who don't have a perm but want a bit of a wave to their hair would benefit more from using a salt spray on damp hair and scrunching up/twisting the hair while it dries. 

As summer in China has been so incredibly hot and humid, my use of makeup has been limited to a very light BB cream, brow gel, and a nice lip colour. I've already mentioned the Innisfree Eco Flower Tint 3 Rose in my recent Innisfree haul post here, and my love for it is still going strong. It's a rosy lip stain that is very long wearing and can be patted in sheerly for a rosy tint, or layered on for a warm-toned red lip. There's also a peachy pink and an orange in the Eco Flower Tint range and I'm definitely thinking of picking those up. Another lip favourite is the Dior Addict Lip Glow, which comes in absolutely gorgeous pink packaging and is so easy to use. Just swipe it on like you would a lip balm and you're done. It's one of those tinted lip balm type deals, but the colour sort of varies for everyone. When I use it, I get a very rosy lip, but when my mum uses it, she gets more of a pink lip. It leaves a nice glossy finish and is incredibly moisturizing as a lip balm. I think the only complaint I have for this product is that it doesn't come in more colours. 

What were your July favourites?

Innisfree Haul + First Impressions

I always spend the summer in China as I'm off school and my parents live here, and one of the best things about it is stumbling across stores of Asian skincare brands that aren't available in North America. Sure I can always pick things up online, but I'm a weird one about buying beauty products online. I like to be able to feel the texture of the product on the back of my hand, test the colours, and check the scent of the product. When I saw an Innisfree store on a street corner while I was in Shanghai, I immediately plunged in and ended up leaving with quite a few things.

The first thing I picked up is the Wine Jelly Mask Set, which promises to create a smooth jelly-like skin by gently clearing off dead skin cells and providing hydration to the skin. The set comes with 5 sheet masks. At first, I thought "jelly mask" referred to the actual sheet mask being one of those gelatin ones, but the actual mask is a very thick paper/cotton mask. As it is a wine mask, it was expected that the serum in the mask had a plum colour and smelled of red wine, but without the alcohol scent. I left the mask on for 15 minutes, and when I removed the mask, my face looked brighter. Red wine masks provide gentle exfoliation to the skin, so that helps to brighten. Polyphenols are also a great source of antioxidants, which are great in the summer to help repair sun damage. There was still a lot of serum left in the mask, so I wiped it all over my decollete and legs. The serum leaves a slightly sticky finish, so some may prefer to wash it off the face afterwards, but I just slapped on my face cream and called it a day.

I also picked up two of the Capsule Sleeping Packs, one in Green Tea & Cucumber and one in Rice. They are basically overnight masks in little tiny pots, and they were just so cute I couldn't resist! I've only tried the Green Tea & Cucumber one, which is meant for hydration. I used this on a night when I got home from a very delayed flight at 4am in the morning. Thinking that my skin was definitely going to suffer the next day, I slapped this on as the last step in my routine, went to sleep, and woke up the next morning with plump, bright skin. I was rather impressed, really. The Rice one is meant to smooth and soften the skin. Rice ingredients typically do have that effect on my skin, so I'm excited to try it out soon.

The last skincare item I picked up was the Eco Natural Suncare BB Powder. It's basically a powder SPF with SPF 50+/PA+++ that's very slightly tinted. I've been using this everyday since I got it, so that goes to show how much I'm enjoying it. I'm going to be featuring this product in an upcoming SPF post, so I won't talk about it too much now. Be sure to check back on the blog!

I also picked up two makeup products. The first is the Mineral Moisture Base, which is a primer. Mine comes in a bottle with a pump rather than the tube shown in the link though. I picked up the one in green to help counteract redness in the skin as my skin is easily irritated by the elements. The product has a very lightweight gel-cream texture that's easy to spread and dries to a sort of satin-matte finish. I don't really have a problem with base makeup sliding off my face throughout the day, so I can't really comment on whether this primer helps makeup last. For those with dehydrated skin that see their makeup becoming patchy throughout the day, I do think that the hydrating texture of this primer would help with that problem.

The other product I got is the Eco Flower Tint in 3 Rose. Although it's called a tint, this is a lip stain. I'm very low maintence with my makeup and I don't like to have to touch up throughout the day, so lip stains are a perfect option for me. The product can be applied sheerly or built up for more colour. When applied sheerly, it's a really pretty rose tint and I prefer to wear it this way. When layered up, it has more of an apple red colour, which is also very nice. The product has a very liquid texture that is not drying at all for the lips, and once the product has dried down I can't feel it on my lips at all. Oh, also, because it is so liquid, it's easy to get it in your mouth before the product dries down. I accidentally tasted it and, wow, let me just tell you, it was not pleasant. 

With all of these products, I reached the 560RMB (about $93) point perk and received a free glass water bottle and five sample size products. The water bottle is so pretty and has a compartment inside for tea leaves, so I think I'll be getting a lot of use out of it. The samples included the Green Tea Seed Serum and Cream. The serum is actually a pre-serum used as the first step after cleansing to help retain moisture and help subsequent products absorb, so I thought that was interesting. The cream is the kind of gel-cream texture that I really enjoy. I also received the Super Volcanic Pore Clay Mask, Jeju Volcanic Pore Toner, and Green Persimmon Pore Essence. I'm not really that concerned with pores, so I might pass these on to a friend who would appreciate them better.

Overall, I think Innisfree is a fairly affordable brand that's great value for money. For me, it's a score across both skincare and makeup. 

Have you tried any Innisfree products?